DALKEY WALKS 

 

Step Into the Millennium
WALKS AROUND Dalkey & Killiney
With Alice Cullen

(member of Dun Laoghaire Borough Historical Society)

Alice Cullen is a member of Dun Laoghaire Historical Society and is to be seen from time to time regaling local citizens on matters historical. Below a list of walks starting with Alice on March 26th 2000, followed by an account of Harry Latham’s 1975 walkabouts.

Starting Point & Time:

Conducted Tour

  • Sunday, March 26th 2000, 2.30pm
  • Killiney Village Bus Stop
Killiney Village, Druids Chair Monument and Saintbury Avenue.
  • Sunday, April 16th 2000, 2.30pm
  • Burmah Road Car Park

Dalkey Castle, Torca Hill and Knock–Na-Cree & Sorrento Park

  • Sunday, May 21st 2000, 2.30pm
  • Killiney Village Bus Stop
Killiney Hill & Its Monuments

 

  • Sunday, June 18th 2000, 2.30pm
  • Dalkey Heritage Centre

Dalkey Avenue, The Flags, The Metals, Ardbrugh and Quarries.

  • Sunday, July 16th 2000, 2.30pm
  • Killiney Village Bus Stop
Killiney Village, Ancient Church & Coastal Tour

 

  • Sunday, August 20th, 2000, 2.30pm
  • Dalkey Heritage Centre
Ulverton Road, Bullock, & Harbour Road

 

  • Sunday, September 17th, 2000, 2.30pm
  • Killiney Dart Station
Ballybrack, Cromlech, Seafield Road

 

  • Sunday, October 15th, 2000, 2.30pm
  • Dalkey Heritage Centre
Castle Street, Dalkey, St. Patrick's Road, Tubbermore Road.

 

 
 
People come from near and far to walk the roads of Dalkey. 

See Gladys Green "Guided Tour of Dalkey" circa 1960s and the famous historian Mr M J O’Flanagan "Old Dublin Society" circa 1940. As chronicled in the Dalkey newsletters our very own Harry Latham with an account of a series of monthly walks Harry led April - Sept 1975. (As a matter of interest the newsletters were bound and presented to Dalkey Library where they can be referenced. They hold a huge amount of interesting articles which we are endeavouring at present to bring to you). 

 

 
HISTORICAL WALKABOUTS 1975
 

15th March Castle Street, Barnhill road, Barnhill Park and Dalkey Ave 

19th April Ulverton Road, Bulloch Harbour, Harbour Road 

17th May Coliemore Road, Sorrento Road 

21st June Ardeevin Road, Mount Salus, Knocknacree Road, Torca Road 

19th July Dalkey Island (Meet at Coliemore Harbour) 

16th August Sorrento Road, Vico Road, Cat's Ladder 

Meet at TOWN HALL, Castle Street, Dalkey, 10 a.m. (except July). Everybody welcome 

For easy reference - the 3rd Saturday in each month. 

To Hotels, Guest Houses etc. - Please tell Visitors 
 

April 1975 Newsletter 11 

WALKABOUT 1 

We had our first "Walkabout Dalkey" on Saturday 15th March led by Mr. Harry Latham 

Undeterred by rain and cold about fifty people arrived at the Town Hall. Starting at the Town Hall with a brief history of Dalkey, we then moved on to the graveyard where we examined the Church of St. Begnet and the Druid Stone with a Cross carved on it. From there we went to the site of two Castles at the corner of Ulverton Road and Castele Street. Many thanks to Mrs. Mundow for allowing all of us into her garden. 

On Barnhill Road bridge we stopped at the site of the Atmospheric Railway. This brought to life the articles which Mr. Latham has been writing for the Newsletter. Further on we stopped at what was the old National School and what is now a Service Station. All along the way we passed houses whose names appear in a private survey map dated 1765 which our guide had with him - names like Wolverton, Dalkey Lodge, Shamrock Lodge etc. 

From Barnhill Road we went up Barnhill Avenue and across to Dalkey Avenue where we met Mr John Porter. He gave us an interesting account of his ancestor’s building work in Dalkey. At the Railway Bridge on Dalkey Avenue we examined the Celtic Cross and Mr. Latham read us an account of the tradition of this Stone from Mr. M J Flanagan's article on Dalkey. 

In the old days funerals always went as far as this stone where the Stations were said before going to the graveyard. 

We arrived back at out starting point at about 12.15p.m. with our appetites whetted for the next Walkabout. Thank you, Mr. Latham, for a most enjoyable and informative morning 
 

May 1975 Newsletter 12 

WALKABOUT 2 

Once again it was "Walkabout" time and a good crowd of parents, children and dogs met outside the Town Hall. We went first to the Queen's Carpark and Mr. Latham pointed out the old Tram sheds and told us briefly about the Horse-drawn trams and then the electric trams. He then showed us two old prints - one showing the Town Hall as it might have been 1750, and the other of Bulloch Castle at a similar date. On our way to Ulverton Road we admired the sturdy structure of the Tram Company Cottages. We had pointed out to us the old Victorian Letterbox on the corner of Church Road, and then crossed Ulverton Road to peep at Ulverton Lodge, a peaceful backwater in busy Dalkey. 

Then on to the site of one of the three Dalkey Quarries, where Mr. Latham told us several grisly stories of drowning, including a donkey and cart; on again to the garden of Mrs. McCooney who showed us an old painting of Bulloch Castle and the coast line before the Harbour was built. We crossed the road again into Castle Park grounds and Mr. Carter gave us a potted history of the house before it became a school. Now on to Bulloch Castle and Mr. Latham had a story to tell of the well in the grounds, also of cannons which belonged to a revenue cutter the "Falcon", and which now appear to be lost. Round the outside of Bulloch we went and saw in the wall the lintel of the bricked up doorway, the entrance to the well in the Castle grounds. 

Our next stop was in the grounds of "Bartra" by kind permission of Mr. Anderson, here we were driven to shelter from the rain, but nothing was going to keep us from proceeding and soon we were looking at the Martello Tower in the garden. On again into St. Patrick's Church grounds to admire the exterior of the Church, built for 400 on land donated by the Ballast Office 

Next we visited "Beulah" the home of Mr. & Mrs. Boyd Dunlop, and Mr. Latham told us of the interesting people who lived there. "Charleville" was next on our list, built by a renegade French man, who erected the Spy Tower, so he could keep an eye out for Napoleon. We finished at the entrance to Harbour Crescent on which stood "Crow"Cullen's cottage, who collected dues for the Ballast Office because Harbour Road was private property. 

Our appetites have been whetted for the next walk Saturday 17th May. See you there. 
 

WALKABOUT 3 

June 75 Newsletter No. 13 

Saturday, 17th May, a glorious day, saw the Walkabout people, led by Harry Latham, enter the wrought-iron gates of Carraig-na-Greinne with foot scrapers and the back of the Victorian Post Box still visible. We walked to Charles Leslie's granite villa, built 1830. With its uninterrupted view to Dalkey Island across the Rocky Common Land of Dalkey with its huge 'coal quay' below. Here small boats would put in from the coasters lying off with Newhaven coal and the squatters would haul it up the easy slope to Dalkey for fuel. Leslie bought out the crofters' cottages which spoilt his view - but a 'Rights of Way' case to the Lady's Well was fought by a returned crofter, 'Lady' Cullen, and to-day the sloping lane of hewn stone remains and the entrance to the underground passage by which the locals could draw their water and remain unseen are well preserved 

We got superb views from Loreto Abbey. Past pupils all had pleasant memories, except for the colder stormy days outside the classrooms. 

Having completed an inner circle, we moved back up Leslie Avenue admiring the houses like Avalon and cottages with their neat gardens. Leslie Avenue is one of the few one-way streets in Dalkey; surely this is the way to solve our traffic problems and retain our old-world charm - not a road widening scheme? 

Next we walked under the arch to Coliemore Villas, dated 1840, and into that peaceful dwelling place. Each house on the 'square' has its own individuality brought out by its owner with paint, shutters or window boxes. The Villas down Coliemore Road stand in their own grounds; we admired a fine example, Abbeyview, which was built by a businessman called Gresham, now owned by Mr and Mrs E Byrne. On the opposite side of the road, the circular base of yet another Martello tower can be seen; under Long Rock, below 'Inniscorrig' Etty Scott the gold dreamer convinced people that gold and riches would be found if they listened to her instructions! 

Again Mr Latham produced one of his rare pieces of research: at the home of Mr and Mrs Harry Sheppard we were shown a plan drawn about 1840 for two Greek styled blocks of dwelling perched on the side of Killiney and Dalkey hills, to be called Queenstown. It was never started but the name remains on Queenstown Castle beyond the harbour. 

As we passed Victoria House we learnt that Mr Burke, who built it, also had plans to make Coliemore Harbour a much larger harbour for Dublin. He finished the present pier between 1847 and 1869 
 

WALKABOUT 4 

July 1975 Newsletter No. 14 

Once again we were lucky with the weather for our historical walk, Harry Latham first led us to Roe's Cottages, behind the Ulster Bank, which were built by one Buggy Roe around 1840. Mrs Lynch in the end house showed us some very interesting and unusual prints of Dalkey. Then on to Railway Road where Mr Pat Roe of San Jose told us something about the life of the fishermen in Dalkey long ago. It fell to the women to carry the heavy baskets of fish - sometimes walking overnight - into the Dublin Markets. With the arrival of the railway a thriving tourist trade grew up around Dalkey. Opposite the station was a tea-rooms and the side cars and cabs plied their trade from Railway Road taking passengers from the train to view the scenic splendours of Killiney and Dalkey. 

Going over the bridge we admired St. Patricks Square and were even able to offer personal congratulation to Frank Crawley who works so hard to make it a model townscape 

On the other side of the bridge stands "Johnville", built by a Mr Cunningham (hence Cunningham Road) in the 1850's. He was the engineer responsible for the railway bridges in Dalkey 

We moved on to Ardeevin Road and its many interesting houses, perhaps the most interesting being "The Octagon" owned presently by Miss Conan. The only access is up a narrow tree-lined path - romantic but inconvenient. The house was built as an octagon - even the roof tiles are octagonal - with one room upstairs and one downstairs and was used as a kind of day nursery by the nineteenth century owner who lived in nearby Montpelier. His children were packed of to "The Octagon" every day with a governess. 

Near the top of Knocknacree Road we wondered at the "Devil's Boot". A boot-shaped depression in the granite wall (opposite "Villa Alta"). According to the story people would not pass this spot after dark. 

On Ardbrugh Road we passed the site of the old public tennis courts before coming to Dalkey Hill Village. In 1815 when the quarry was opened for the building of Dun Laoghaire's East Pier these freehold cottages were built for the quarrymen and their families. Threading through the narrow picturesque lanes was an unexpected experience for those of us who had passed up and down Ardbrugh Road completely unaware of this delightful village. Our last trip was at the site of the old Windmill on the Flags. It operated to pump Dalkey's water supply 1860 - 1890 but unfortunately didn't function when the wind was in the South. 

WALKABOUT 5 

August 1975 Newsletter 15 

The July Walkabout started out as a Cruiseabout for we were on our way to Dalkey Island. 

 We assembled at Coliemore Harbour at 10 o'clock. There was a heavy swell on the sea but by 10.45 everyone was safely across thanks to our expert boatmen. Before leaving, Harry Latham told us that the Atlantic Waters came up to the South Side of the sound and that the Sound was known as St. Bennets or St. Bonny sound after St. Begnet. 

On arrival at the Island we went up to the Church of St, Begnet. On the way up Harry Latham told us that the ships used to pass between the Island and the mainland, and Mrs Deale produced an old photograph showing a ship sailing through the Sound. Outside the church there is a rock which has a carving of a cross within a circle on it - a mixture of Druid and Early Christian. In 1957 a grave was found on the Island which contained six skeletons laid head - to - toe. 

From here we went up the hill to the Martello Tower. The tower is one of fifteen built on this part of the East Coast during Napoleonic times. Harry Latham told us that the tower was built on the site of two earlier fortresses, one dating from Milesian Times and the other Norman. On the seaward side of the tower there is a stripe which is the start of a measured nautical (2000 yards) mile. The other mark is on the tower in the grounds of Bartra on Harbour Road. Beyond the tower we saw the gun emplacement which held three 24 pounders. 

From here we strolled back to the landing place where the boats were ready to take us back to Coliemore. 

 

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